The Corsican Connection - Part 1
Calvi is a small town on northwest Corsica, a mountainous island between Italy and France. So of course, it's hosted a great deal of invaders over the millennia. If you've ever heard of Corsica, you might because it's known as the "murder capital of Europe," thanks to mobsters and separatists but what the heck. We were first lured to Calvi in September 2011 by our friends Jim and Kirsten Delara who, after years of lengthy vacations there, finally took root before the pandemic.
Flash back to 2011: delirious with delight
Of course, we've always wanted to return. And so we did - on September 25 which involved a 3.5 hour train ride from Paris to Marseilles where we spent most of the day loitering at the airport until our one-hour flight to Calvi. We arrived in Calvi while a full moon peeked over the mountains and just in time for dinner at the Delaras' - wood-fired pizza and bottles of Pietra, followed by tinkling glasses of Cap Corse.
It took all of one day on the Delaras' "secret beach" for us to decide to forgo Toulouse and Bordeaux and extend our stay in Calvi another week. I mean, c'mon - wouldn't you?!
Like a lot of Mediterranean towns during the summer, Calvi teems with tourists. But by the end of September, the beaches and streets and even the Citadel were fairly quiet, save for a trickle of Germans and Swiss, a lone yacht, and a parade of Porsches.
Later, we hiked up the hillside behind Calvi for the view of the sea and to visit the Notre-Dame de la Serra. Fun fact: the Madonna on the rocky pinnacle was not the same one we visited in 2011. Installed in 1935, she was shattered by lightening in 2022. Mon Dieu!
Steve and Jimmy are cycling buddies from way back, so Steve had shipped a bicycle to Calvi so they could wear themselves out climbing steep curving roads. I don't have much to write about his rides, except he'd return sweaty and satisfied. While he was spinning wheels, I tidied our apartment, did laundry, and otherwise enjoyed some down-time. All in all - the first week in Calvi was a perfect respite.
Fantastic weather, meals with dear friends, peace n' quiet.
The epitome of joie de vivre.
Next: Calvi Part 2 = New digs, L'ille Rousse, and a surprise for Steve - Cars! Cars! Cars!
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